What to put in your portfolio

Most of the people you will show your book to are probably photographers so it is extremely important that the quality of the pictures is very high. Photographers tend to first look at the picture (and try to analyze how it's shot) and then at the make-up and styling.

Photographers are generally looking for a book of photos where the subjects look like they've got great skin and where attention is not drawn to the makeup. Have a couple beauty shots (unless you are already exclusively shooting beauty), but only have one shot in the book where you've taken a chance or gone out on a limb.

When you're choosing pictures, after a test for example, try to go with the photographers choice. Don't always go for the close-up picture because it shows off your make-up or you'll end up with a portfolio full of skin-care-ad-looking images.

On the shoot

Talk to the photographer. Find out what the brief is. Do not think of every shoot as an opportunity to show off. Be adaptable and try to find what works for the model, not just what you were planning to try out.

During make up do try to talk to the model and build a rapport with her so that when she goes on set she starts with her confidence already high. It should also mean she wont mind with the odd tweaking that she may need, which on the whole will provide a nice relaxed shoot.

Go easy with the colour

One of the most common complaints from photographers and stylists when working with new make up artists is too much makeup and use of colours that are too strong.

Most makeup jobs are not about the makeup, they're about the image as a whole or simply about the clothes.

If you are given a free reign or asked to be more creative let the photographer/stylist know what you are planning before you go ahead.

Perfection is attainable

Most importantly, a makeup artist should be able to smooth any color blotchiness and flatter/enhance facial features. But don't stop at the face. If any skin is on show it is YOUR responsibility to make sure it looks right, although that doesn't mean going mad with the foundation.

That even extends to making sure that models have removed any items of clothing that MIGHT leave a mark. Given that it takes about an hour for elastic marks to fade do this before everything else. For example get the girls to remove their bra and socks and undo the waistband of their jeans.

Yes these marks can be retouched later but it is easier, quicker and cheaper to get the shot right first time. Also the photographer may not be the one doing the retouching so will not want to hand over images to the client that already have a list of avoidable blemishes.

It's also useful if the make-up artist knows a bit about photography. A natural look can sometimes look washed out and pale in strong lighting yet stronger looks can become overpowering. Most set ups will show each and every brush stroke and the tinyist imperfection (of either the model or the make up) will be glaringly obvious so always check the polaroids!

Hygiene

Not just restricted to cleaning brushes. Popping out every now and then for a cigarette during the shoot is never popular. Especially if you're working with a non-smoking team. Try to wait until the model is getting changed or the hair-stylist is changeing the hair. Then use babywipes with perfume in to get some of that smell of your fingers.

During shooting

Make sure the model looks good actually on the set, under the shoot lighting conditions. Keep an eye on stray hair etc while the photographer is shooting. However ASK before jumping in to correct something. If you watch the photographer you should be able to spot when a 'good time' is.

Don't leave early - stay until the end of the shoot , don't make appointments that start when you know the shoot will still be going on and do bear in mind that shoot can often overrun.

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